As June turns into July, Düsseldorf changes. The first truly hot weeks announce themselves, the pavement holds the warmth, and life shifts step by step toward the water. It is the time to plan the city differently: earlier, slower, and always with the Rhine in view.

On the hottest days I begin the morning by the river, before the sun reaches full strength. The Rheinuferpromenade is fresh and quiet then, and a walk by the water gives the day shape before the heat arrives. Those who set out early keep the finest hours for themselves.

Around midday I look for shade and stillness. The Hofgarten is a gift in July: tall trees, cool paths and enough room to step out of the warmth. When the sun is at its strongest, the city's cool interiors are the best choice, from a gallery to a quiet café where time runs slower.

The evening belongs to the Rhine again. During the hot weeks the whole city moves to the bank, to the steps, the meadows and the bridges from which you can watch the sun set over the water. The promenade becomes a meeting place, and yet there is still room to find your own quiet spot.

Those who want more open space cross to the other bank of the Rhine in July. On warm days the Oberkassel meadows are a soft, open place, where the wind comes off the water and the view reaches back across the river to the city. A simple picnic in the shade of a tree is often better than any plan, and the afternoon stretches out on its own.

July in Düsseldorf does not ask for a full programme but for a feel for the rhythm of the day. You follow the shade, drink enough water, and let the river guide you. In this way even the hottest weeks turn light, and the city shows a relaxed, summery side that I especially love.